Sydneysiding


I woke up to the Tasman Sea below me.

As soon as I landed I was asked for my yellow fever vaccine. I broke into a sweat knowing I hadn’t brought it with me, hadn’t even thought about it. They sent me into another line and looking through my phone I was lucky to find the picture of it from going to Tiputini. The officer told me they were very serious about the vaccines; they didn’t want yellow fever back in the continent. I only understood once I was finally out in the Australian sun taking the ferry to Manly and Q station, the quarantine island where hundreds lived and died to prevent epidemics from spreading in Australia til the 80s. 
View of Sydney coming back from Manly

 Manly’s beach was beautiful yet I was mostly fascinated with the first cockatoo I saw by a street light. I stared at it for as long as I could in disbelief, taking endless terrible pictures; I had only seen cockatoos with wings cut and in cages. I also couldn’t believe more people weren’t as amazed as I was, then I found out they are abundant but my enchantment was not phased, it only grew with the diversity of birds that continued to appear. This included the magpie singing by Q station.

My first night in Sydney I had reserved a foodie tour of Chinatown. The tour started with an acknowledgement of the Gadigal people in whose land we were at the moment. Despite how often I continued to hear this during my trip, it always gave historical perspective and put me in a particular frame of mind that made me extra appreciative, as though trying to travel through time, imagining the land that used to be, the one we were collectively trying to acknowledge.
In between meals we walked past a statue of a Confucious drop of water falling (so different from Hundertwasser’s painting) and saw Kimber Lane in blue, with the clouds for luck and the spirits of the times hovering, alluding to Chinese and aboriginal influences. 
My favorite was the mural of Jenny Munro, a prominent activist fighting for aboriginal rights.  

The Asian influence in the city’s food is magnificent and offers a plethora of options that are truly outstanding in the palate. From Philippino calderetta to red hot toppoki, my taste buds where having a blast. 
toppoki

 I was, however, struggling with jet lag. I was lucky Shannon offered to drive me to my hostel (in the tour there were 2 Aussies and I).
I woke up with the anticipation of walking Bondi to Coogee beach. I am grateful for the wonders of couchsurfing that brought Channah and Qi to my life, the audiovisuals guru and doctor, respectively - simply fantastic company. The breathtaking cliffs are a sight to see and the amount of groupers I was able to point out while snorkeling was truly commendable for beaches so close to a big city. I am still impressed.


As we walked up the cliff to find the bus stop, there was a lorikeet, full of color, lost in the leaves of a tree branch.
We went to Surry Hills for fantastic Gelato Messina and at night to Longrain for thai and wine.
The next day our hearts were broken as the 4th person who was supposed to join and drive all of us to blue mountains bailed. It was too early and rainy, a bit miserable so we had big breakfast and jumped on the ferry to explore the Balmein. There, I confess, I met the happiest librarian. Sydney is filled with happy bookstore keepers. 
We ventured into the museum of modern art; thought provoking and inspiring.

ngayirr (sacred) by Nicole Foreshew

 We walked Glebe and the flea market. Ate lentils as anything. We parted ways and I ran to the Barracks. The lady in the counter let me in with the price of a child’s pass since I was there for the last half an hour. I stared at the hammocks where the prisoners first slept upon arrival to Sydney. I left to lay in the park for a while, seeing the kids play with bubbles. 

Channah actually convinced me, contrary to all my attempts to dissuade her.
I lined up for 2018, literally. Sydney - the first grand city to light up the night at midnight. I was there at 8:30am.
Channah, Milena and I lounged under the brazing sun and the champagne couldn’t wait til midnight.




The lights were marvelous, perfect to open a new chapter.


Shannon and Melissa were so lovely as to venture with me to the blue mountains. We slipped and thought we would die on the skyrail (mostly Melissa). 

Three sistahs

 We found trees kissing. Had fantastic vegan food a rubyfruit and hunted unsuccessfully for galahs.



That night there was opera at the opera house, I couldn't get over that view.
Sydney was too kind, unexpectedly welcoming. Sea and forest concealed, yet open. It had the best I remembered from New York plus breeze and better coffee, an air of unlimited possibilities.
I shall be back one day.

 Mel

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